Very often, I am irritated by travel books about India authored by Westerners as they take a patronising attitude towards Indians. It almost seems as if they feel that Indians owe them a living. Michael Wood’s The Smile of Murugan: A South Indian Journey (London: John Murray, 2002) is one book that is a refreshing change. This is a book of religious travel, as Wood accompanies a group from Tamil Nadu on their trips to various temples. All through the book is characterized by Wood’s empathy and respect for these people, for whom these pilgrimages must be a high-point in their worldy existence.
One is also touched by his friendship with Mala, a lady struggling to keep her family fed and to make ends meet. In all his interactions with Mala and her extended family Wood is sympathetic, and this is one of the essential ingredients of good travel literature.
The Smile of Murugan covers Wood’s travels to Rameshwaram, Cape Comorin, Courtallam, Srivilliputtur, Madurai, Palani, Kumbakonam, Tanjore, and Madurai amogst other places.
This is an old book, but an old favourite, good to purchase and it lends itself to re-readings.
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